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Learning to surf, the first steps
By Fredrik Pettersson
There are two main components of surfing: paddling out and dropping in to the wave. And while there are a lot more to surfing than so, these are the two things to learn first. When paddling out you have a few choices to make. You can swim through the waves without your board, paddle over the top, dive with the board early or try to paddle under the lip (only try this with shortboards). Deciding what to do is all just a matter of experience. When paddling out, always charge straight at the wave as hard as you can. Even if you think you're going to get beat by the wave, just keep paddling straight toward the wave. The wave is moving toward you, so if you keep moving toward it, you will be surprised at how quickly you can get there, and possible even slip right under it. The trick to get through an already broken wave is to go deep, you need to get below the broken water of the wave into the calm water below and keep swimming out. The deeper you can get under the wave, the safer you will be from the force of the breaking wave (as mentioned, this only works with a shortboard). The other way is to get off the board and dive down. As the wave passes over you, push off with your feet and streamline your body. As soon as you break the surface, get back on your surfboard and paddle hard. Once you get to the right location you have to wait for a decent wave. To find a good wave and to get in the right postiton to catch it is something that comes with experince and is quite hard to master. In the beginning you will be dealing with rather small waves and therefore this is not a major issue in the beginning. When dropping in on a wave while lying on a surfboard, always remember to lead with your head. If you want to go down the face of the wave, you have to keep your head down. Put your chin near the deck of your surfboard, and hurl yourself down the face of the wave as you paddle.
Only when you are sure you have cought the wave, that is you don't need to paddle in order to go forward, should you get up on your feet and start dealing with the next chapter, which is surfing.. The best way to learn how to surf is practice, so get a board and start paddeling, preferably with a good instructor! |
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PLEASE VISIT THE CONTRIBUTOR'S WEBSITE
Bara Hander
Beauty parlour in the heart of Gothenburg
www.barahander.se
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The copyright for this content entitled "Learning to surf, the first steps" has been specified by the contributor as:
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This content may not be copied, distributed or adapted by anyone under any circumstances.
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This intel was contributed by Freddy
Freddy
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May, 2012
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